Tokyo Travel Plan Day 1 involves doing touristy activities. Day 2 of the Tokyo trip series will take you to places where you can discover the origins and transformation of Tokyo into the vibrant metropolis it is today. Katsushika Ward, one of Tokyo’s 23 wards, is located on the eastern side of the city and still preserves remnants of old Tokyo’s working-class atmosphere. With its small factories, shops, homes, and restaurants nestled closely together, the ward exudes a chaotic yet charming and nostalgic ambiance. Throughout this journey, you’ll have the opportunity to visit sites that showcase the different periods of Tokyo’s history, spanning from the Edo period (1603 to 1867) to the Meiji era (1868 to 1912), Taisho era (1912 to 1926), and Showa era (1926 to 1989).

Katsushika is the home of manga series like “Captain Tsubasa” and “KochiKame,” and the popular drama character “Tora-san” is based here. I would recommend starting the day trip on a weekday morning, especially when visiting Shibamata Taishakuten temple.

Visiting Shibamata Taishakuten

The trip begins at Shibamata Taishakuten (or simply Taishakuten) temple, situated at the eastern end of the city in Katsushika ward. To reach Shibamata, taking the outbound Keisei train from central Tokyo, which goes in the opposite direction of the morning rush hour commuter trains.

Step 1: Shopping and eating on the Taishakuten sando

Once you arrive at Keisei’s Shibamata station, there is a road leading up to the temple called “sando,” lined with shops and restaurants worth exploring. This road boasts numerous retro-style buildings, and both the layout of the road and the shops were formed during the Meiji era. Approximately 64% of the buildings are pre-war buildings, which is high compared to other areas in Tokyo. You can indulge in treats such as dango (rice cakes) filled with anko (sweet red bean paste), senbei (rice crackers), and custard, which were popular snacks during the post-war Showa era.

Step 2: Visiting Taishakuten’s Sculpture Gallery and the Garden

Upon reaching Taishakuten, it is highly recommended to visit the sculpture gallery and the Suikeien garden. The entrance fee for both attractions is less than 500 yen. The wooden sculptures were caved during the Taisho period.

Step 3: Taking a break at the modern classic Japanese style Cafe

Behind the Taishakuten temple, there is a charming café called “Yamamoto-tei,” which provides a perfect spot to take a break. From the café, you can enjoy a picturesque view of the beautiful garden, and the entrance fee is just 100 yen (be aware that the price of drinks is not included). It’s important to note that the café’s menu primarily consists of matcha, coffee, orange juice, and zenzai (rice cake in a red bean paste soup), so arriving on an empty stomach may lead to disappointment in terms of food options. However, what truly makes the experience special is the opportunity to sit in an pre-war Showa period Japanese home, savoring matcha or coffee while overlooking the tranquil traditional garden. Only a handful of places can provide such a unique experience.

Step 4: Take a stroll at Shibamata Park

After enjoying your time at the café, taking a walk to Shibamata Park along the riverbank offers a refreshing experience, especially since open fields are a rare sight in Tokyo. The park is perfect for activities like picnicking (when the grass is freshly cut), leisurely strolls, and cycling. Another enjoyable activity is watching the trains pass by on the other side of the river.

Within Shibamata Park, there is a small boat that shuttles across the Edo River to Chiba Prefecture. You can board the boat from the “Yagiri-no-Watashi” dock. Once you reach the other side of the river in Chiba Prefecture, you’ll be amazed at how close you are to farmland despite being in the heart of Tokyo. This boat service has been in operation for more than 350 years.

Step 5: Exploring Tateishi to feel Showa nostalgia

Exploring the retro charm of Tokyo doesn’t end there. When you disembark at Keisei Tateishi station, you’ll be transported back to the 1940s and 50s, a period when Japan was ravaged by war, resulting in a chaotic atmosphere and the emergence of unregulated street shops throughout the country due to shortages of government-supplied food and goods. The northern side of the station still retains that nostalgic ambiance. While the city initially attempted to rebuild based on an early 1900s master plan, a combination of disorder and population growth made it difficult to adhere to the original blueprint. As a result, residents started build buildings clustered together, forming narrow alleyways throughout the area.

The area north of Tateishi station serves as a vivid reminder of postwar city planning failures, with numerous houses, shops, and restaurants tightly packed together. Once you venture off the main streets and start exploring the small alleys, you’ll find yourself transported to a different era, as if time has stood still since the late 1940s. One remarkable location to visit is Nobe Yokocho, known for its nostalgic charm. At night, this area of Tateishi comes alive with restaurants and bars open for dinner and late-night snacks. However, this part of Tateishi may not survive for long, as there are rumors of plans to demolish the area for new developments. This makes it all the more crucial to visit before it vanishes forever.

To the south of the station lies a new shopping arcade that was constructed in the 1950s to accommodate the growing population. In front of the train station, you’ll find two arcade shopping malls. The green arcade dates back to the 1950s and reflects a more organized and spacious layout, as the city managed city planning more effectively during that period. However, by today’s standards, the streets are still relatively narrow. Inside the arcade, there are a variety of shops, supermarkets, restaurants, and bars. On the other hand, the white-colored arcade was built in the 1960s. It features wider streets, making it easier to navigate and resembling the contemporary arcade shopping areas found throughout Japan today.

Step 6: Seeing Late Season Cherry Blossom

South of Tateishi, there is a long street called “Kawabata Community Dori,” which has different kinds of cherry blossom trees planted. The cherry blossom trees planted on this street bloom cherry blossom flowers with more than 6 petals, whereas a typical cherry blossom flower has 5 petals. The cherry blossoms on this street start to bloom when the typical 5-petal cherry blossoms are falling (typically with a 1-week delay). You will be able to enjoy cherry blossoms for an even longer period on this street.

If you walk towards the end of the arcade, in the opposite direction from Tateishi Station, you will come across the main street. Making a right turn on the street and walking for 3 minutes, you will see the street on the left. If you visit the street during the cherry blossom season, it might be crowded, but it is still less crowded than famous locations such as Meguro or Ueno.

Conclusion:

In conclusion, Katsushika Ward in Tokyo offers a fascinating blend of history, nostalgia, and retro charm. From the traditional temples and gardens in Shibamata to the bustling streets of Tateishi, visitors can step back in time and experience different eras of Tokyo’s past. Exploring the narrow alleys, visiting the nostalgic cafes, and enjoying the unique atmosphere of the arcade shopping areas provide a glimpse into the city’s rich heritage and evolving urban landscape. It is important to visit some of these areas now since these areas may be subject to redevelopment plans. For those seeking an authentic and off-the-beaten-path Tokyo experience, Katsushika offers a captivating journey through time.